We took a taxi this morning away from the faded Lighthouse Marina, over the Fresh Creek bridge, past Hank's on the water where we had dinner the night before, past the crab statue at the center of Coakley Town, past two cemeteries and the primary school, past a few liquor stores and a Jamaican jerk chicken place, to Small Hope Bay Lodge. The ecolodge, established in 1960, is a lovely spread that specializes in scuba-diving and bonefishing, with a heavy emphasis on relaxing in hammocks, hanging out on the beach, and eating well. Rooms are draped in batik fabric made at the local batik factory. Water is solar-heated. And the fully stocked bar is self-serve.

After dinner we joined the nature guide Tarran for a nocturnal walk through the mangrove marsh, listening for night birds: Yellow-crowned Night-heron, Clapper Rail. Something large and pale flew away from us soundlessly in the dark.

Sun, sea, birds, food--

when all needs are met,

the sky opens its big blue book.

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